Sakura at Yasukuni

Hi guys,

One last sakura post, hope you all aren't tired of these yet ;)

It may seem slightly incongruous that cherry blossoms are so associated with the samurai, a warrior class.  Flowers are seen as effeminate in Western culture (and, for the most part, Eastern), after all.  In actuality, the metaphor of cherry blossoms is very martial indeed.  See, anyone that had their mom send them out to deadhead the garden knows that most flowers wither and die on the plant.  Sakura, however, do not--they fall off the tree while fully in bloom, and the blossoms blowing in the wind are just as beautiful as those crowding the tree.  Thus, the sakura are seen as a metaphor for a warrior's death, a beautiful death in the prime of life

So it's fitting that Yasukuni Shrine should be one of the marquee cherry-blossom viewing areas of the city ("Are the sakura blooming in Yasukuni yet?").  The shrine honors Japan's war dead, millions of names inscribed there.  Thus, the shrine has particularly poignant meaning during the blooming of the sakura

There are many things I could say about Yasukuni shrine as the cherry blossoms fall.  I have tried to write about the shrine, but have yet to find the right words.  Maybe someday I will write up a post about Japan in specific and its complicated history during WWII, or about the all countries of the world in general and the old lie: Dulce et decorum est . . . but those subjects and controversies don't seem fit conversation for a day like this.  On a day like this, suffice it to say that there were once a number of brave young men and that they fell, just as cherry blossoms must fall, and that they should be remembered

As I said, this will be my final sakura post for the year.  The sakura season is beautiful, but short.  Which is, of course, also part of the metaphor . . .

Noah out

Sakura Fairgrounds

Hi guys.

I feel like I didn't express clearly enough in my last post just how big of a deal sakura season is here in Tokyo.  Guys, sakura season is a big, giant deal here in Tokyo

It only lasts for a week, but for that entire week the entire city gets devoted to hanami (flower-viewing).  No seriously, the entire city

Every single place in the city that has cherry blossoms gets flooded with people to view them.  And in turn, at the best sites, be they city parks or sacred shrines, if there's room for it they'll set up picnic tables and food stands to sell to them.  They will turn temple grounds into fairgrounds.  Because that's just what we do in the springtime in Tokyo.  

Special guest appearance by my oneesan (big sister) Teru, who is pretty much the coolest, nicest, best person in the world--and an excellent hanami companion

It didn't hurt that the day was absolutely *gorgeous* . . . I mean, seriously, look at that

Beer, sake, and pretty much anything you could possibly want threaded onto a stick and grilled.  And that's only at *one stand*

Looks like the upcoming generation of takoyaki chefs are here and learning from the masters that came before

Did I mention the awesome amount of grilled things on sticks???  God I love this country

Most of the stalls are just that, little stalls, but every so often someone ponied up for the extra-large lot and had basically a portable restaurant going

I'm pretty sure Japanese people have been cooking fish exactly like this--skewered and stuck into the sand around a fire--for thousands of years.  Tens of thousands.  Because if it ain't broke . . .

Phenomenally fresh shellfish, meet fire and sunshine.  Fire, sunshine, this is some phenomenally fresh shellfish.  I think you will be friends

Like I said, if there are cherry blossoms there will be people set up to view them.  Be it a park, a garden, or a temple, because that is how Tokyo rolls

It's even a family affair!  Mom is cooking takoyaki out front, while son and grandpa hang out in the back

And yes, there are carnival games.  You thought I was exaggerating when I said that they basically set up fairgrounds wherever there are cherry blossoms.  I wasn't

And yes . . . there's even cotton candy.  Because it wouldn't be a fair without it

Listen, I'm still a young man, I get that.  There is a lot that I haven't seen in this world, I will be the first to admit that.  But I am pretty damn confident that there are not a lot of places on this earth where you can go to a shrine or temple, buy a bag of cotton candy with a cartoon character on it, and enjoy it underneath cherry blossoms.  So when you find one of those places, you should cherish it

Noah out

Sakura in Koishikawa Korakuen Gardens

Hey everybody,

Ok, yup, people have been asking me when this post was coming for months.  It is officially sakura (cherry blossom) season in Tokyo.  And don't think that "season" is a figure of speech, they are literally monitoring the sakura on the news, delivering updates on the train ("The sakura have reached Kyoto!  Should be in Tokyo next Sunday!").  The sakura are a big deal out here, and as soon as the blossoms open the entire population of Tokyo heads to the parks to enjoy them.  I love it!

This is only the first round of sakura pictures, but I thought I would head back to my favorite garden in the city to see what they had to offer.  So here we are, from Koishikawa Korakuen Gardens, the first of the season's sakura

While not as awe-inspiringly full of pink as some of the more famous spots in Tokyo that are nothing but cherry trees, I actually like the contrast of the mostly green trees with accents of blossom

I happened the be there a little later in the day, so the dark shade in some areas was a pretty awesome contrast to the areas still in light

Not a lot of sakura, but I feel like I was *really* lucky and this picture turned out amazing, so I had to include it.  No seriously, this is one of my favorites I've taken for this blog

No, we're not allowed on this island.  Which sucks, because I want to live there

Umm, dark foreground, light background shot again?  Apparently I'm just a sucker for that

While the wind whips through the rest of the city mercilessly, the walls around the garden are high enough to keep out breeze and street noise alike

This wasn't even at a prime time to visit, more like late afternoon.  I can only imagine how packed the garden is during midmorning

And finally, the requisite close-up shot.  Because artistic and stuff

More to come!

Noah out

The Beauty of the Warning Sign

Hi guys,

So, Japan has been well-known, throughout history and the modern era, for its art.  From classic screen paintings and woodblock prints to anime and manga, the Japanese are undoubtedly skilled.  But it has been said that the true force of their artistic ability can best be expressed through the media of warning signs and placards

Let's have a look:

Elegant in the simplicity of its message:  "Any masterpiece just becomes noise disturbance when emanating from headphones."  Not just a good lesson, but a powerful metaphor for the transformation of unique creation as it undergoes mass propagation

A classic from years ago, it's really sold by the facial expressions of the old couple.  I think the artist really captures their feelings of wry reminiscence as they contrast their lives of stability and security with those of the carefree young couple in love

Ok so this one was not found on a public train, but rather in a private restaurant. But its message is a universal one, and an important one for all of us that have ever considering using public restroom toilet paper to become a mummy

And finally, Tokyo Metro's latest ad campaign has gone full Banksy on us.  I believe they are trying to challenge us by juxtaposing a style popularized by social commentary with posters intended to promote domestic order, thus bringing into question our perceptions of the nature of societal structure

I feel honored to be in a country where I am surrounded, even on public transportation, by such thought and beauty

Noah out

The Dark Secret of JX Oil . . .

Hey all,

Headed on down the corporate headquarters of JX Nippon Oil & Energy Company, over by Tokyo station.  Now, they want the world to think that they're simply an oil and gas company, nothing more

And they almost fooled me.  Almost.  But they made one fatal mistake that allowed me to figure out their true purpose:  Making Gundams.  Yes that's right, JX Nippon Oil & Energy Company is secretly making Gundams, which I can only assume are waiting for the secret activation code to awaken and defend the soil of Japan

But every mastermind makes a mistake, even the perfect crime has a single flaw.  Oh yes, I never would have cottoned on to their disguise if not for one tiny mistake:  Putting pictures of Gundams all over their lobby walls

Gonna have to get up earlier than that to fool me, JX

Noah out

Hotaru Ika (Firefly Squid)

Hi everyone,

Has anyone heard about firefly squid?  They're super cool!  Bright blue bioluminescent, they of course spend most of their time in the very deep ocean (like most bioluminescent fish)

Science!  Science is fantastic!

However, once a year, they come up to the surface for mating season.  Toyama Bay here in Japan is famous for this, and every year the entire bay turns bright blue

#55,483 on my list of things to do here in Japan . . .

Cool, right?  The mysteries of science are even more impressive than fiction



Oh . . . and did I mention that they are delicious???  Hahaha you didn't really think this blog post was just about the pretty lights?  Yup, for a very short period of time in spring, you can find them on menus here in Japan

They have a very soft texture compared to normal squid, although still with a bit of bite to them.  The flavor is a touch briny without being overly fishy, and they're bite-sized, or if you're savoring them then I guess two bites.  More importantly, they have a subtle sweetness the pairs awesome with their savory ocean flavor

Enter Izakaya Hoochie Coochie . . .

Turns out, they are *delicious* tempura-style . . . there were a lot more to this order, but I got distracted because they were so delicious and ate half of them before remembering to take a picture

Oh and hey, you can flash-boil them and serve them sashimi-style.  Which happens to go *very* well with shochu, but that's another post, I think . . .

Moral of the story:  Always go with the seasonal goods here in Japan.  You will not be disappointed

Especially when Hiro is the chef.  Hell yeah

Noah out

Tonki: More benefits of specialization

Hey guys,

Ever since I mentioned it back in my post about Harajuku Gyoza Lou (one of my more popular posts, aww shucks), people have wanted me to write something up about Tonki.  Some say it's the best tonkatsu in Tokyo; others, the best in Japan.  I don't want to weigh in (I've had a lot of great tonkatsu, including Ouroji about which I wrote a post).  But there's no denying that this place is pretty special

My Uncle Ike was visiting, and this has been one of his favorite places for years.  So we decided to head on down a few days ago to see if they're still as delicious as we both remember (spoiler alert:  Yes)

The first thing to note about the place is that it is clean, spotless and pristine.  A single large room, you sit in one counter surrounding the open kitchen and the on-deck diners sit along the wall.  Even with fryer oil running constantly, the restaurant is entirely free of any smell.  The air is pure, the wood is clean, and everything about the place runs smoothly

Call it 30 seats or so, not as small as many shops but certainly enough to really pack it in

Although there's space in the back, 90% of the cooking happen right here in the central kitchen

As soon as you walk in, the majordomo will immediately take care of you--"host" is simply not dignified enough for this guy.  One gets the sense that if Prime Minister Abe himself were to walk in, accompanied by President Obama, Chancellor Merkel, and the ghosts of Queen Victoria and Emperor Meiji, the majordomo would confirm their party size of five, take their orders, and direct them to seats along the well

(alas, no pictures--we were here right at opening to beat the line, and apparently he isn't necessary until later.  I'll just have to go back)

Oh yes, you place your order as soon as you walk in, because there are more or less only three things on the menu:  Dark meat, light meat, or skewered with onions.  Breaded and fried, served with the traditional cabbage accompaniment, with rice and soup rounding out a full meal.

As soon as your order is placed, the full assembly line goes into action.  Your meat is floured and egged in turn repeatedly, then breaded in panko and dropped straight into the first of a series of vat-sized fryers.  The meat is turned carefully, transferred to each subsequent vat by a watchful attendant, and finally diced and served.

The perfect assembly line

At each stage a different chef takes care of it, with the final removal from the fryer overseen by what I believe may in fact be the happiest man in the world--no seriously, he is my favorite part of this shop.  He is always here, hunched over, and every single piece of meat eaten in this shop is inspected and sliced up by his eyes and hands

That is the smile of a man who knows 100% exactly what he wants to do with his life and has the contended knowledge that he does it the best in the world

The tonkatsu itself defies description.  Crispy on the outside, warm and moist on the inside, with sweet sauce, spicy mustard, and cool cabbage to complete a full combination of tastes and textures

Uncle Ike's hirekatsu (light meat)

Plus my rosukatsu (dark meat), plus an added skewer or pork and onions because Ike had never tried it

A little out of the way, but absolutely phenomenal.  Tonki, located in Meguro station, is an absolute must-try if you visit Tokyo

Oh, and free refills of rice and cabbage, by the way ;)

Noah out