SCIENCE

Hi everyone,

So I wrote a bit back about the luxury of being able not to know what's going on.  It's fun!  This statue in Ueno Park is one of those times

It would take about thirty seconds' worth of research to discover who this man is, and what he did.  Maybe I should, I'm sure he led an impressive life and accomplished great things.  But really, I kind of like not knowing.  In my mind, this statue is a monument not to a single men but to all handsomely mustachioed scientists posing dramatically with test tubes all around the world

Plus, let's be real, this world would be a better place if guys doing Science were just as respected and idolized as guys making war (which, in my observation, is how the subjects of most public monuments get chosen).  Although you know me, I'm just a sucker for cool statues of any kind



Anyways, I choose to imagine that this is what all of my friend that are in grad school for Life Sciences look like every day.  Or at least, all of my friends that understand the true purpose of Science--the opportunity to look cool while wearing a lab coat

Some people just get it

Noah out

In which Our Hero was apparently punished for his hubris

Hi guys,

I figured out what my ironic Greek punishment would be.  Basically, the opposite of Tantalus: Instead of being hungry but denied of opportunity to eat or drink, I would be giving the opportunity to eat all the tasty food I wanted--but I would always already be full

Here's how I came to this realization.  After spending the day wandering around Yanaka and gorging myself on a giant portion of some of the best curry I have ever eaten (and yes, I stand by that statement--so you can just deal with it, random jerk with no life taking advantage of internet anonymity), I meandered on down to Ueno.  The meander has been a solid method of transportation for me lately; Basically I pick a neighborhood I like, then pick another neighborhood 2-5 train stops away, and then spend a few hours making my way from one to the other at a leisurely pace.  "Meander" is a good term for it, because my distaste for taking the straight line from A to B generates a path approaching fractal complexity--I can turn a 2km as-the-crow-flies path into a 8km wander, given appropriate distractions

But I digress, the point is that I ended up in Ueno Park already very, very full of delicious curry . . . aaaaaand walked right into the middle of the Indian Subcontinent Culture Festival.  Complete with all kinds of delicious food.  I felt like I was going to cry

Curry and samosas and Nepalese dumplings everywhere

Everywhere I turned, nothing but delicious-looking food for like 500yen per plate

Why, Zues, why????

And reasonably priced booze too???  I would rather have my liver eaten by an eagle every day

It was truly awful, the most terrible of tortures imaginable--to be surrounded by the sight and smell (oh yes, the smell) of such delicious food while too full to eat any.  Just awful

Anyways, long story short I still got a big thing of lamb biryani.  Because I have poor impulse control.  The plan was to take it home with me, but then I walked past a comfy looking bench like thirty seconds later and stopped to try a few bites and ended up eating the whole container of delicious spicy lamby goodness.  Because I have poor impulse control

You had me at "what's that in the squeeze bottle?" "spicy sauce, you can add extra"

I have such poor impulse control.  It was totally worth it

Noah out

Lifeguard Energy Drink, the stuff nightmares are made of

Hi guys,

So, picked this up at 7-Eleven

Lifeguard energy drink

It's good for you guys.  Vitamins *and* Amino Acids

That . . . that appears to be a crazy bunny driving a racecar

Oh god stuff of nightmares

If you're saying that the label and description make it look like a Rockstar on a bad acid trip . . . well that's pretty much what it tastes like too

Noah out

Harajuku: A study in contrasts

Hi everyone,

If I had to pick one thing I most love about Tokyo (well, one thing not related to food or drink), it would be the willingness to juxtapose the modern and the traditional, the new and the old.  Temples are tucked away in the most unlikely places, a pleasant surprise in the hustle and bustle of the city.  It's this attitude that underpins so much of what makes this such a cool city--they are open and willing to embrace new things, but never forget where they came from and never fail to honor that past

There's nowhere else I've ever been like it--and nowhere is this more apparent than in Harajuku, one of my favorite neighborhoods in Tokyo.  Let's go for a walk:



A mere thirty seconds' walk from the station gets you to Takeshita-dori, a pedestrian mall that is the root of Harajuku's rep as the heart of young people's fashion in Japan

Always crowded, Takeshita-dori is where all the cool young people go to hang out, eat crepes, and check out all cool fashion and accessories.  The talk is that designers from around the world come here or send reps, as it's a great place to get a pulse on what's cool today (or what will be cool tomorrow)

We've got the girly . . .

. . . the goth . . .

. . . and the I'm not quite sure but I'm cool if you're cool

No trip to Tokyo is complete without a wander down Takeshita-dori.  Head on down, grab a crepe from one of the ubiquitous stands, and even if you're not going to buy anything enjoy some of my favorite people-watching in the world

You didn't really think I'd get through an entire post this long without *something* food related, did you?

But this post is about contrasts and juxtapositions, so let's head back to the station.  If you walk thirty seconds in the other direction, you end up in Yoyogi Park and Meiji Shrine--which might as well be another world from the craziness and sensory overload of Takeshita.  175 acres of park in the middle of Tokyo, with a gorgeous shrine in the middle, a little oasis

A little different from the gate at the beginning of Takeshita-dori

Aerial view, courtesy of wiki.  Go donate!!!

Relatively young, Meiji Shrine will be celebrating a mere century pretty soon.  It was formally dedicated in 1920 to house the remains and honor the memory of Emperor Meiji, who presided over Japan during the period now known as the Meiji Restoration.  I'll skip over the history lesson, but the fact that Japan went from self-imposed isolation to a major international industrial power in just about a single generation (straddling the end of the 19th and beginning of the 20th centuries) is largely due to the leadership of Emperor Meiji.  After his death, both he and his consort were deified in the Shinto religion, and this shrine was built for them

The opening gate to the shrine

Wash your hands before paying your respects, of course

How cool do you have to be in life to continue to get barrels of sake given to you after you die?  Because that's now my goal

Just as no trip to Tokyo is complete without the trip to Takeshita-dori, I don't think it's complete without a visit to Meiji-jinja.   And if you see them both on the same day, you'll have a touch of understanding of one of my favorite things about this city

You might even make a friend!

Noah out

Nakajima

Hey everybody,

I'm doing my best to share with you guys all of my food finds here in Tokyo.  This one was an amazing winner:  Nakajima, located in Shinjuku

Yes you saw that correctly, that is indeed a Michelin Star.  Reason #4,588 why lunch sets are the greatest Japanese innovation in history.  Because at lunchtime, they drop the price from $80 per person to $8.  Yup

To start with, the place isn't easy to find.  I literally walked right past it last week when I was on my initial scouting mission to find the place.  Take a look:

We're basically playing Where's Waldo? with a Michelin restaurant

Ok, that's a little better.  Still, I don't feel too ashamed for walking past that the first time

And there we go, right at the bottom of the stairs

It should be noted, by the way, that this picture was taken after I had eaten, which is to say near the end of lunch service.  At the beginning of lunch service, the line is all the way up the stairs.  Place opens at 11:30, and the line starts forming at about 11:10

Once you do get inside for lunch, the place is quiet and reserved.  I'm not sure how many seats there are, because aside from the counter where I sat, each of the tables is within its own private room--still, no more than four or five of those rooms, I'd wager.  As you'd imagine from a small, elite Japanese restaurant, decoration is simple but precisely executed.  Even during busy turn-em-and-burn-em lunch service, the volume never gets above a muted buzz

This picture stolen from another blogger, because I was not about to be unsubtly taking pictures in here.  Although it's worth noting that this picture was taken during lunch service anyways, I don't think anyone would have the guts to be taking pictures on the main floor during the much more serious dinner hours

As for the food?  Well.  Let me tell you about the food.  Sardines are their specialty during lunch, prepared one of four different ways--sashimi, breaded and fried, simmered, or grilled.  800 yen each, and of course served with soup, rice, and Japanese pickles

Predictably, I'm a sucker for good sashimi so that was my selection--but don't worry, I'll be heading back for the others

Sitting at the counter, I got to watch the chef filet the sardine in the blink of an eye (there were no bones!  In sardines!  How did he do that so quickly???  I suspect the darkest of sourcery), dice it, then mix it with green onions (for a pop of brightness) and toasted sesame seeds (for a touch of earthiness).  Fresh ginger, lemon juice, and soy sauce for dipping.  Slightly sweet, with the high notes of flavor filled in by the garnish and the oiliness of the fish providing a full body.  Possibly the best $8 meal I have had in memory

I apologize for not having nicer pictures of the food, but 1) I was nervous sitting there with my camera in such a nice restaurant, and 2) I really, really wanted to start eating

I love being in a country that truly cares about food

Noah out

Sunny Day at the Imperial Palace

Hi everybody,

It appears to be my fate in life to visit the Imperial Palace when the gardens are closed.  Alas, perhaps I should just accept it

It's actually very common for museum or other sites of interest to be closed on Mondays and Fridays.  Why this is, we can all speculate with equal ignorance.  I learned this fact the last time I tried to visit the Imperial Gardens, when I was here last year.  So this time, I came prepared, or at least I came on a Tuesday.  Only to remember that when Monday is a National Holiday, such as yesterday which was National Respect Your Elders Day (no seriously, did everyone remember to respect an elder?) the museum/gardens/whatever are open for the holiday but closed the next day.  Foiled again!

That's ok, I still got a few pictures :D

One of the main gates, shuttered for the day

If I were a swan, I'd pick the Imperial Moat to live in as well

A popular path for joggers--the perimeter of the moat is almost exactly five kilometers (sixteen foot-pounds, I believe)

But seriously, that's a hell of a moat

Speaking of moat.  Now, I'm a big fan of the moat as an architectural feature, but I accept that in today's day and age it's out of reach for all but the most luxurious of homes (reason #35,266 why I hate Tom Brady.  It has koi in it!  Ugh I hate that man).  But the funny part is that, for the Imperial Palace, the addition of the moat has about as much practical use as Brady.  More serious students of Japanese history can correct me if I'm wrong, but as far as I know no one has ever attacked the Imperial Palace.  No one has ever even considered it in the millennia that the Emperor has existed (and yes, I know that this particular edifice has only been the Imperial Residence for like a century and a half, I'm speaking in broader terms)

There has been civil war many, many times, but ever since its establishment over two and a half millenia ago, the Emperor has almost always stood above.  When the warlords fought across Japan, it was only to have the right to be acknowledged as the sovereign military ruler by the Emperor

This is not to say that the Emperor has always ruled supreme, quite the opposite.  There have been centuries-long eras in which the Emperor was little more than a figurehead besi the Shogun, or military leader, of Japan.  And yet, even if that acknowledgment was a mere formality because the Emperor would have been a fool to withhold it, the Shogun still needed the endorsement of the Emperor  (Portuguese missionaries once described the Emperor and Shogun as similar to the Pope and the Holy Roman Emperor, if you want a Western analogy)

In fact, the comparison to the Pope is a solid one--no matter how much we fight beneath him, only the truly godless Muslims or Mongols (in this analogy, the Chinese or Americans I suppose) would ever actually attack the Pope.  He's, you know, the Pope

Anyways, my point is that it seems kind of silly to have such a strictly defensive structure as a moat around a building that pretty much every warrior in all of Japan would die before allowing to be attacked.  But hey, I'm not complaining.  As discussed above, I like moats!

Plus, I assume that in a time of National Emergency this dude would come to life and defeat any invading armies merely by glaring at them

Noah out

Hawaiian and Tahitian Festival in Odaiba!

Hi guys,

K, fully recovered and ready to get back to adventuring!  In this case, said adventure took place out on the man-made island of Odaiba out in Tokyo Bay.  And what a gorgeous day it was for the trip . . .

Haven't been back in years.  Last time I was here, we rode on a red Ferris Wheel car ;)

Now just cuz I'm here in Japan doesn't mean I'm limiting myself to Japanese culture alone.  So when my friend Eris suggested that we check out a Hawaiian and Tahitian Festival, I was all manner of down.  Awesome way to spend a sunny Saturday!

Music!  Best duo I've seen live since Elephant Gazebo

Crafts!  All handmade, by the way, which is awesome

Pretty dancing ladies!  Who are also, really, really good dancers!

Awesome performances, combined with the sunshine and Japan's legality of drinking in public, meant that this was just about the perfect way to spend a day



"Ok Noah, we applaud you for your restraint in waiting this long to start talking about the food.  You may tell us what you ate"

. . . thanks, I'm glad you appreciate the effort that took.  Yes, food trucks all over!  I love food trucks!  I was happy to see all of the Hawaiian food available, but considering that I was just there I gravitated quickly to the Tahitian food stands (Eris ended up getting a Loco Moco from one of the Hawaiian places, and yeah . . . it looked pretty amazing).  Tahitian food, like much Polynesian cuisine, revolves around grilled meats and fish.  So I knew from the beginning I was gonna be happy.  Although the skewers looked delicious, I opted on the grilled shrimp sandwich--and was not at all disappointed

Very delicious food comes out of dudes in vans so tiny they sit hunched over while grilling.  I have always known this to be true

Also, they brew beer in Tahiti! Pretty solid amber ale, actually.  Although at this point I get enthusiastic about anything not a lager

Oh, and before you jump in and say, "how can that be Tahitian if it's on French bread?" let me remind you that French-style bread isn't native to Vietnam either but that doesn't stop them from enjoying banh mi.  Oh, and tomatoes aren't native to Italy, potatoes aren't native to Ireland, and peppers aren't native to Hungary.  So if an island in *French Polynesia* wants to put their food into baguettes, they have as much right as that Italian pouring tomato sauce on his pasta (which was also not invented in Italy!)



Anyways, more music!  The final stage of the night was a very cool band from Tahiti--a band called Pepena, totally check them out. Island music, with enough Rock (and, to my ear, a touch of late Santana) to keep me very interested

. . . who it just so happens had been sitting next to us drinking all afternoon.  They were awesome, awesome guys, we hung out chatting for a while.  They've been in Japan all week, did all the tourist stuff.  I asked them some about Tahiti (yet another place I wanna go, how exhausting).  Totally rad dudes, liked them ever before we saw them play

We got a picture with the band, because we are awesome

The show was small, certainly way smaller than they're used to, at least.  But dude, a ton of fun, perfect way to end the day

(as a side note, that synchronized waving was completely uncoached by the band.  Either they've all been to a show together before, which is unlikely cuz this was Pepena's first trip to Japan, or it's yet another product of the Japanese hivemind.  You decide)

Great day of sunshine, performance, and food.  Plus, I took home a signed CD as a souvenir.  Great day

Noah out

Japanese people like things that are cute, #2

Hiya guys,

Been under the weather this week, so not too many adventures.  But this picture was in my camera and needed to see the light of day

Somebody please call up Haagen Dazs (it's a made-up word anyways, I'm not going to bother trying to figure out how to add the umlaut) and tell them that they need to track down this anonymous Japanese 7-Eleven employee and get her to do their international campaign

Ok, so it was a totally sexist and racist thing for me to assume that the artist here was female and Japanese.  But based on my experiences of tiny, cute Japanese girls and their art skills (I'm looking at you in particular, Kyoka) I think it's a decent gamble

Noah out

We all knew this post, or one like it, was coming . . .

Hey guys,

It goes without saying that the longest, most involved, and most passionately written posts on this blog will be about food and/or booze.  Because duh.  So why, then, has it been this long without a post about the Tokyo drinking scene?

Well, a couple reasons.  The first being that when I'm out hanging out with friends at a bar I am much less inclined to take pictures than during the day when I'm in full-on tourist mode.  The second being that drinking out falls into two categories for me--drinking for the drink, and drinking for the friends.  While I've done plenty of the latter, I can't pretend it will be too interesting for you guys to read about.  As for the former, my budget has somewhat restricted that--they respect cocktails here in Tokyo, which is awesome but means that the top cocktail bars make Los Angeles cocktail bars look cheap.  But don't worry, that's all coming

So what's left then, if I am to share my indulgences of the culinary palette available to bartenders and consumers of alcohol alike?  Fortunately, I was down in the Southwest of Tokyo for a job interview today, so I got to stop by Akasaka to visit my favorite liquor store in the whole city

This post has already gotten very long-winded, so I think we should switch to question-and-answer format in hopes of constraining my verbosity.  Strap in, it's gonna be a long ride

Q:  Well let's start in the obvious place, how's the sake selection?
A:  I could drink a bottle a day and still not be done by the time my visa runs out

I want it all

Q:  Ok that's nice, but I prefer my sake cold.  Do they have a decent selection chilled?
A:  You know it.  Check it out:

Four coolers

Q:  Huh?  I thought you said they had a decent amount.  That doesn't seem like very much
A:  That's because you are assuming those are 750s.  Nope, 1800mLs, so delicious

Thank god it's just a wall of coolers instead of a walk-in; otherwise I'd crawl in and never leave.  I already considered it with these tiny coolers

Q:  Haha ok, I get it.  What if I want something a bit higher proof?
A:  How do you like Shochu?

Many others available, but I had to take a picture of the five different kinds of Iichiko

Q:  How are the prices?
A:  Oh you're gonna be mad at me for this.  Bottle of Iichiko standard?  $10

Thank god they don't keep these in the cooler, that would be dangerous

Q:  Ok fine, I get it, awesome sake and shochu selection.  Should I then assume that their Japanese whiskey selection is equally extensive?
A:  I think that would be a fair assumption, yeah

Suntory, Nikka, and a full line of Ichiro's as well.  Glorious, glorious

Q:  All well and good, but do they have anything with aromatic character and tender, woody flavor?
A:  You'd better believe it

Mars Whiskey.  I'm not saying it's distilled on Mars, but I'm not saying it isn't . . .

Q:  Hmm, anything with a humorous picture of a Scotsman on it?
A:  Yup

He seems like a cool dude

Q:  Ok I get it, they have lots of cool, special whiskeys.  But I'm having a big party, I need quantity.  Do they have anything that comes in a 4 litre bottle?
A:  Count 'em, four different kinds

All for around $40 each

Q:  Fine, Japanese whiskey.  But I hear Japanese like scotch as well, do they have any of that?
A:  Haha you're cute
Q:  Ok, I get it, they like scotch.  But it's mostly highland stuff, right?  Japanese can't handle the more peaty stuff?
A:  Very cute

Laphroaig Triple Wood, $60??  Yes please

Q:  Fine, fine, fine.  But we know you, Noah, you're definitely a whiskey patriot.  How's their selection of American?
A:  Bourbon-licious, my friends.  Bourbon-licious

God bless America

Land that I love

Q:  Ok, but it's probably pretty expensive, right?
A:  Hahaha 700mL of Jim Beam white is $10
Q:  Bastard.  But do they have premium bourbon?
A:  From Basil to Blanton's

Oh, and did I mention that they're charging $30 for it???

Q:  But surely they don't have rye for a good price . . .
A:  Jim Rye, one of the most underrated products on the market

$13?????

Q:  Ugh, not fair.  But do you have anything for, you know, special occasions?
A:  Ten steps ahead of you, my friend.  Wild Turkey 101

Oh Kentucky, you land of mystery and wonder

Q:  Ok, I get it, you're not lacking for whiskey.  What else have they got?
A:  Equally good selections of Rum, Vodka, and Gin
Q:  Tequila?
A:  Tequila

Tequila

Q:  Fine, base spirits abound.  But you're a cocktail guy, Noah, all of these are well and good but not the same without liqueurs and aperitifs.  How's the selection there?
A:  Oh they have liqueurs.  And the prices?  Amazing

Campari, Aperol.  750mLs.  $13 and $14.  Yeeeeeeah

Green and Yellow Chartreuse.  $30 and $40

Becherovka.  $26

Even Grandma, 750mL for $25.  Japan is amazing

Q:  Ok that's amazing.  But bitters!  I've got you there!  No way they have a bitters selection enough to satisfy you
A:  Nobody does this side of DeLaurenti in Pike Place Market.  Fortunately, I thought of that ahead of time  . . .

They say fortune favors the prepared

Q:  Ok, I get it.  This liquor store is awesome, Japan's liquor prices are absurd, you're the coolest person ever, Noah
A:  Why thank you
Q:  And yet, I just can't seem to put my finger on it but something's missing.  Something's lacking.  Something just doesn't seem right . . .
A:  Oh don't worry.  Got that one covered too

Twenty.  Dollars.

Excellence knows no oceans.  No frontiers

Noah out