Nakajima

Hey everybody,

I'm doing my best to share with you guys all of my food finds here in Tokyo.  This one was an amazing winner:  Nakajima, located in Shinjuku

Yes you saw that correctly, that is indeed a Michelin Star.  Reason #4,588 why lunch sets are the greatest Japanese innovation in history.  Because at lunchtime, they drop the price from $80 per person to $8.  Yup

To start with, the place isn't easy to find.  I literally walked right past it last week when I was on my initial scouting mission to find the place.  Take a look:

We're basically playing Where's Waldo? with a Michelin restaurant

Ok, that's a little better.  Still, I don't feel too ashamed for walking past that the first time

And there we go, right at the bottom of the stairs

It should be noted, by the way, that this picture was taken after I had eaten, which is to say near the end of lunch service.  At the beginning of lunch service, the line is all the way up the stairs.  Place opens at 11:30, and the line starts forming at about 11:10

Once you do get inside for lunch, the place is quiet and reserved.  I'm not sure how many seats there are, because aside from the counter where I sat, each of the tables is within its own private room--still, no more than four or five of those rooms, I'd wager.  As you'd imagine from a small, elite Japanese restaurant, decoration is simple but precisely executed.  Even during busy turn-em-and-burn-em lunch service, the volume never gets above a muted buzz

This picture stolen from another blogger, because I was not about to be unsubtly taking pictures in here.  Although it's worth noting that this picture was taken during lunch service anyways, I don't think anyone would have the guts to be taking pictures on the main floor during the much more serious dinner hours

As for the food?  Well.  Let me tell you about the food.  Sardines are their specialty during lunch, prepared one of four different ways--sashimi, breaded and fried, simmered, or grilled.  800 yen each, and of course served with soup, rice, and Japanese pickles

Predictably, I'm a sucker for good sashimi so that was my selection--but don't worry, I'll be heading back for the others

Sitting at the counter, I got to watch the chef filet the sardine in the blink of an eye (there were no bones!  In sardines!  How did he do that so quickly???  I suspect the darkest of sourcery), dice it, then mix it with green onions (for a pop of brightness) and toasted sesame seeds (for a touch of earthiness).  Fresh ginger, lemon juice, and soy sauce for dipping.  Slightly sweet, with the high notes of flavor filled in by the garnish and the oiliness of the fish providing a full body.  Possibly the best $8 meal I have had in memory

I apologize for not having nicer pictures of the food, but 1) I was nervous sitting there with my camera in such a nice restaurant, and 2) I really, really wanted to start eating

I love being in a country that truly cares about food

Noah out